[Around Us] The Scene of the Last Line of Defense in Busan

In the history of Korea, which has seen many external invasions, "fortresses" are often hailed as products of the nation's patriotic spirit. They have played a crucial role in defending the homeland, and even in Busan, the last line of defense, various fortresses have fulfilled this role. The sites of intense historical significance are now gaining attention as "Instagramm-able spots" for the MZ generation. In this edition of “Around Us,” “Channel PNU” focuses on the fortresses located throughout Busan. “Channel PNU” introduces Dongnae Eupseong, Geumjeongsanseong, and Busanjinseng, visited on September 23rd and October 1st.    

■Dongnae Eupseong, One of the Representative Fortress Towns in Korea

The history of Dongnae Eupseong, located in Bokcheon-dong, Dongnae-gu, Busan, traces back to the Unified Silla period. It began as an earthen fortress during the Unified Silla era, evolved through the Goryeo period, and finally took on its present form during the Joseon Dynasty. Despite its peaceful appearance with its North Gate, Seojangdae Command Post, Pukjangdae Command Post, and Dongjangdae Command Post, Dongnae Eupseong witnessed fierce battles during the Imjin War, which was the Japanese invasion of Korea.

The fortresses in Korea are characterized by both mountain fortresses and plain fortresses. However, during the Japanese colonial period, most of the plain fortresses in Dongnae Eupseong were demolished due to urban development, leaving only the mountain fortress, which is the current remaining structure.

This place, popular as a walking path for citizens, harmoniously combines with the surrounding forest, making it an ideal spot for leisurely strolls. As people ascend to the North Gate, people will be greeted by the extensive grassy hilltop alongside the stretching fortress walls, where people can fully enjoy the refreshing autumn breeze. Families and pet owners gather here for outings, with a serene atmosphere.

From October 13th to 15th, the Dongnae Eupseong History Festival took place here, adjacent to Jang Yeong-Sil Science Park, next to the grassy hill. This event offered various cultural activities such as food stalls, interactive experiences, and performances. 

To reach this location people can take city bus No. 183 to Dongnae Cultural Center Bus Stop or bus No. 189 to Oncheon Entrance Bus Stop, then walk for approximately seven minutes. If you’re using your own vehicle, you can use the public parking lot at the historic park. The pathway to the fortress is decked, making it easily accessible.

■The Largest Fortress in Korea, Geumjeongsanseong

Located on Geumjeong Mountain in Busan, Geumjeongsanseong is the largest stone fortress in South Korea, with a perimeter of over 18.8km. Constructed during the Three Kingdoms period, it was reinforced during the Imjin War and Byeongja Horan to strengthen national defense and protect the territorial waters.

Visitors can explore the fortress via a 1 hour and 30-minute hiking course starting from the East Gate, passing through the 3rd and 4th Watchtowers. However, for a more convenient outing, taking the cable car is recommended. The cable car's round-trip fare for adults is 11,000 won, and it operates from Geumgang Park, ascending to an altitude of 540m to reach Geumjeongsanseong. People of all ages, from children to seniors, enjoy the cable car ride to experience the grandeur of Geumjeongsanseong. Upon descending from the cable car, you can immerse yourself in the forest's phytoncide and enjoy a walk, eventually encountering the majestic Geumjeongsanseong. Around Geumjeongsanseong, people can find tables and resting areas where people can take a breaks. It's an ideal spot for a simple trek and a chance to relax in a peaceful setting, providing a sense of tranquility often absent in the city.

Similar to Dongnae Eupseong, Geumjeongsanseong also hosts local festivals. The Geumjeongsanseong Festival takes place on May 25th to commemorate the fortress's construction. During the festival, people can enjoy various activities, food, and performances. People can even experience Korea's first traditional liquor, Makgeolli, and the iconic Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli, known as "Minjok-ju."

To get to Geumjeongsanseong, people have a few transportation options. People can take city bus No. 80 or 131 to Geumgang Park Entrance and walk to the fortress. Alternatively, people can use the cable car and village bus No. 203 for a direct arrival at the South Gate.

■The Urban Fortress within the City, Busanjinseng

This place, also known as Jasungdae, is Busanjinseng, located in Jwacheon-dong, Dong-gu, Busan. Until now, it has been referred to as Jasungdae, a vestige from the Japanese colonial period, but on January 4th, it reclaimed its original name, ‘Busanjinseng.” This site, famous as the first battleground during the Imjin War and as the final resting place of General Jeong Bal, is a strategically significant military stronghold that served as the naval headquarters for defending the southeastern coast, designated as Busan Metropolitan City Monument No. 7. Unlike Dongnae Eupseong and Geumjeongsanseong, this fortress, which is a Japanese Castle, features walls built using Japanese construction techniques, offering a unique charm. Yeonggadae was restored in 2003 and is well-preserved.

Busanjinseng consists of the East Gate, West Gate, North Gate, Yeonggadae, and the surrounding trail. Along the scenic green trail surrounding Busanjinseng, people can encounter local senior citizens exercising and foreigners who have come to explore Korean history.

Apart from the trail, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy. At the Joseon Tongsinsa History Museum, people can learn about the attire and roles of the Joseon Tongsinsa envoys. At the Hanbok Culture Center, people can even try on Hanbok and, with a prior reservation, have photos taken. Beyond the trail, there are various places where people can engage in unique experiences, making people's time at Busanjinseng far from boring. Visiting this place, close to the center of the city, allows people to experience nature and reflect on history while taking a load off their minds. If you plan to visit this location using public transportation, you can take buses No. 83, 101, 108, 134, or 138 and alight at Busanjinseng Park Bus Stop.

Reporter Lim Chae-Kyung

Translated by Lim Chae-Kyung