[Bonjour France] Exploring Aix-en-Provence: In the Footsteps of Paul Cézanne

Everything you need to know about exchange students! Channel PNU's “Talk-Pawon” offers a glimpse into the daily lives of exchange students. This episode of Talk Show features “Channel PNU” reporter Seo Yoo-Jung, who is participating in the exchange student program of the 2025 Fall Semester at Aix-Marseille University in France, sharing her experiences. This program was created to provide useful information about Pusan National University (PNU)'s overseas exchange programs.

The sun-drenched city of Aix-en-Provence in southern France felt like a work of art in itself. About a week before classes began at my exchange school, I wandered through the city and experienced its charm firsthand.

On August 28th, I arrived in Aix-en-Provence, home to the language institute (SUL) affiliated with Aix-Marseille University—where I am enrolled as an exchange student. Although classes wouldn't begin until September 5th, I couldn’t wait to explore. I stepped out into the streets as soon as I unpacked my bags. I wanted to see with my own eyes the charm of the city I had researched so many times before my departure.

After a week of exploration, I discovered that Aix-en-Provence is a city where artistic inspiration truly comes alive. Traces of Paul Cézanne, often called the “father of modern painting,” are visible not only throughout the city center but also in shops and estates on the outskirts. Drawing from these experiences, I have selected four of the most memorable sites in Aix-en-Provence to introduce.

■At Jas de Bouffan, Traces of an Artist’s Life Remain

Perched on the eastern hills of the city, Jas de Bouffan was a place steeped in Cézanne’s life. The Provençal bastide-style mansion, purchased by his father around 1859, bore the traces of the artist’s nearly 40 years of residence. Media art of Cézanne’s early work “The Four Seasons” was displayed on the living room walls, while a small attic atelier awaited at the top of the stairs—every corner of the house seemed filled with paintings. According to the Mediterranean magazine “Perfectly Provence”, Cézanne created about 36 oil paintings and 17 watercolor paintings during his time at the estate.

On the canvases, Cézanne’s warm gaze upon Aix-en-Provence was observed. Many of the landscapes displayed inside the estate feature the gardens surrounding Jas de Bouffan, the chestnut-lined path by its front gate, and nearby ponds and farms, while his portraits often depicted family members. According to “Cézanne at Jas de Bouffan”, masterpieces such as “The Card Players” and “The Artist’s Father Reading his Newspaper” were also painted here.

■The Atelier Where Cézanne Found His Muse

Climbing the northern hills of Aix-en-Provence, visitors arrived at Cézanne’s final studio, the “Atelier des Lauves”, nestled among lush green trees. About a 15-minute bus ride from the Jas de Bouffan estate was the space where Cézanne worked from 1902 until his death in 1906. Designed by the artist himself, the studio is a striking structure with its gray stone façade and large windows.

Inside, Cézanne’s working environment has been vividly preserved. Upon entering, my eyes were immediately drawn to a torn, oversized canvas standing at the center of the room. On the old wooden table and drawers rested objects such as a plaster Cupid statue and a green jar. The scene evoked Cézanne’s still life “Fruit and Ginger Jar,” as if the painting had come to life before me.

From the studio, the view opened directly onto Mont Sainte-Victoire, a motif that frequently appeared in Cézanne’s works. According to the Aix-en-Provence Tourism Office, the mountain was both a recurring subject throughout his career and a profound source of artistic inspiration. Standing before the window and gazing at the peak, one could clearly see the very scene that had once captured Cézanne’s eye. Visitors, too, lingered in silence, their absorbed expressions suggesting their deep immersion in the landscape.

■Cours Mirabeau: Where Art Meets Peace

Cézanne’s footsteps could also be traced along Cours Mirabeau, the central boulevard of the city. According to materials published by the French company “French Moments”, Cours Mirabeau stretches about 440 meters from the Fontaine de La Rotonde to the Fountain of the King René. At the starting point near Fontaine de La Rotonde stands a statue of Cézanne, inviting visitors to take in the surrounding scenery with the artist at its center.

Shops and cafés line both sides of the boulevard, with the famed “Les Deux Garçons” standing out most prominently. According to “Perfectly Provence”, the café was a favorite haunt of both Cézanne and Émile Zola, where they would discuss art, literature, and politics over an aperitif, a wine-based pre-dinner drink. Traces of other illustrious visitors, such as Picasso, Sartre, and Albert Camus are also said to remain. Unfortunately, when I visited, the café was temporarily closed, so I was unable to step inside.

The many fountains scattered along the boulevard also caught the eye. According to Atout France, Aix-en-Provence is often called the “city of water” due to its abundance of fountains, nine of which are located on Cours Mirabeau alone. From the two fountains at either end of the street to those covered in thick moss or flowing with warm spring water, each had its own unique charm. They served as popular photo spots that drew the attention of passersby, including myself, and as resting places where people could pause and relax.

■Granet Museum, Aix-en-Provence’s Landmark of Art

At the end of Cours Mirabeau, one is met with the imposing stone façade of the Granet Museum (Musée Granet). According to the museum’s official website, the institution consists of a three-story main building and an annex. Originally constructed in 1676 as a priory for the Knights of Malta, the site was officially opened to the public as a museum in 1838 and has since become one of Aix-en-Provence’s most emblematic cultural landmarks. The building exuded the dignity of its long history, and the entrance was bustling with visitors when I visited.

Upon entering the exhibition hall, I was greeted by walls adorned with Cézanne’s works. Murals, portraits, landscapes, and still lifes lined the space in abundance. Among them were major pieces such as “The Large Bathers” and “Portrait of Émile Zola”, whose delicate brushstrokes left a striking impression, as if the paintings themselves were alive. Visitors, too, seemed deeply absorbed, lingering for long moments before them.

This year, the museum offered even more to see with a special exhibition celebrating the “Year of Cézanne,” titled “Cézanne at Jas de Bouffan”. According to “Martigues en Provence”, the local tourism office website, the museum’s permanent collection already includes more than 12,000 works. To this, some 90 additional Cézanne pieces - borrowed from major museums in France and abroad - were added. The exhibition opened in late June and will run until mid-October.

Reporter Seo Yoo-Jung

Translated by Seo Young-Chae