Busan, which served as the temporary capital of South Korea during the Korean War, has many traces of Korean modern history left. These historical footprints are centered around the original downtown area of Busan, where the Oriental Development Company in the Japanese colonial period and the base of refugees in the Korean War were located. At that time, the original downtown, which flourished as the center of politics, economy, society, and culture in South Korea centered on Busan Port, refers to the area corresponding to the current Jung-gu, Yeongdo-gu, Dong-gu, and Seo-gu.

To experience Korean modern history, including the Japanese colonial period and the Korean War, "Channel PNU" visited several places in the original downtown of Busan: the annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum, the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall, the Provisional Government Building, and the Ami-dong Bi-suk Village on August 18th and September 16th.

■Annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum, Where Past And Present Meet

If you want to know the modern history of Busan, you should go to the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum. The existing Busan Modern History Museum was reestablished as the annex of the “Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum,” a complex cultural space. The annex was built as the Busan branch of the Oriental Development Company during the Japanese colonial period and retains its historical traces. After liberation from Japan, it was used as an American Cultural Center and operated as the Busan Modern History Museum since 2003, becoming a place to reflect on Korea's painful modern and contemporary history. Nearby, the former Bank of Korea Busan branch building is also being transformed into the "Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum Main Building" and is set to open in December.

The annex holds historical significance because the ceiling on the 1st and 2nd floors remains the same as when the building was built. Visitors can explore the building's history by reading information signs attached to added columns and imagining its evolution over time. In particular, the fact that various architectural styles were used attracts people's interest, including the reinforced concrete structure, steel frame structure, and steel framed reinforced concrete construction.

The Annex of Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum is a good space for study and relaxation. The 1st floor features a "Daecheong Suga" where books are organized by topic, allowing visitors to read freely. Various programs, including lectures, and book talks, are held in a dedicated space. The 2nd floor houses the "Daecheong Maru," which offers an exhibition space where visitors can learn about the building's history. There are also chairs and desks for relaxation.

To visit the annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum, take Busan Metro Line 1 and get off at Jungang or Nampo Station, about a 10-minute walk away. Visitors can park at the Yongdusan Park public parking lot if they are driving.

■Provisional Capital Memorial Hall, the Stronghold of Korea During the Korean War

As you climb up the hill with many houses in Bumin-dong, you can see a red brick building that looks old. At first glance, it looks like an old house, but it is the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall. It was initially the governor's office of Gyeongsangnam-do before the Korean War. However, it served as the presidential residence for 1,023 days, while Basan was the provisional capital from August 18th, 1950, to the armistice on July 27th, 1953, during the Korean War.

Inside the building, visitors can experience the image of the 1950s. The meeting rooms, libraries, and other interior spaces where the crucial political decisions of South Korea were made during the Korean War, have been preserved almost exactly as they were at that time.

Immediately next to the presidential office building is an exhibition hall, the former Busan high prosecutor's office building. In this place, permanent exhibitions are held under "Life of War," and "1,000 Days of Temporary Capital Busan." People can guess the life of the refugees through the wheat noodle's restaurant at the time and the model of the shack where the refugees lived. Furthermore, there are items such as remnants of war, post-war recovery postcards, and war damage recovery posters, which allow people to feel the hardships of the wartime era vividly.

To visit the Temporary Capital Memorial Hall, take Busan Metro Line 1 to Toseong Station, and it's a short walk uphill. Visitors can park at the Temporary Capital Memorial Hall parking lot if they're driving.

■A Great Place for a Weekend Getaway, Busan Temporary Government Office (Now Dong-a University Seokdang Museum) 

If you descend from the hill where the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall is located, you'll find Busan's Temporary Government Office. This building was initially constructed as the Gyeongsangnam-do Provincial Office in 1926 but served as the government office  after the outbreak of the Korean War. The building displays some of the materials directly used in constructing the Busan Temporary Government Office, such as parts of the structure, roof tiles, chimneys, bricks, and window frames.

The Busan Temporary Government Office is operated as the Dong-A University (DAU) Seokdang Museum. On the first and second floors are two national treasures and 18 treasures, including Calligraphy by An Jung-Geun and Donggwoldo (The Eastern Palaces). So, if you look around, it will be a meaningful day.

To visit the DAU Seokdang Museum, take Busan Metro Line 1 to Toseong Station, exit from exit 2, and it's about a 10-minute walk. If visitors are driving, they can park at the underground parking lot of DAU Bumin Campus.

■The Vibrant Lives of Refugees, Ami-dong Memorial Stone Culture Village

To experience the vivid lives of refugees who escaped to Busan during the Korean War, visit the Ami-dong Memorial Stone Culture Village. It started with refugees using tombstones from an abandoned Japanese cemetery to build houses after the war. People can find stone markers with inscriptions in various locations, such as under gas tanks, rest areas, playground stairs, and water outlets. Exploring the village and discovering these stone markers is an exciting adventure similar to a treasure hunt.

The Ami-dong Memorial Stone Culture Village also features a gallery by photographer Choi Min-Sik, the first-generation documentary photographer in South Korea. Photographer Choi, active in the 1950s, mainly captured the real lives of poor people during the war. In his gallery, visitors can feel his warm perspective on citizens' daily lives during the war. There are also over 30 artifacts, including cameras and manuscripts.

To visit the Ami-dong Memorial Stone Culture Village, take Busan Metro Line 1 to Toseong Station, exit from exit 8, and it's about a 15-minute walk. Visitors can park at the Ami-gol public parking lot if they're driving.

Reporter Ha Chae-Won

Translated by Ha Chae-Won